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I started a pair of 3/4 size classicals awhile ago and recently got back to them.

They're based on the Bogdanovich plan.

I decided to keep the 650mm scale to ensure adequate tension, but I'll likely narrow the nut and bridge so the neck doesn't look so out of place on the tiny body.

The backs and sides are a variety of mahogany that was given me and the tops are redwood. Probably going to trim with walnut or cocobolo.








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Looking good so far. That mahogany is nice stuff....nothing better than gift wood

Looks nice, I look forward to updates. . .

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

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I'm debating mahogany or walnut sides. The grain on this variety of "mahogany" really raised during bending - almost like splinters. Maybe why it was gifted...

I'm not looking forward to sanding that out, but I'll give it a shot.

Which brings me to the necks... I was planning to use genuine mahogany or Spanish cedar with the lighter "mahogany" backs and sides.

If I go with walnut sides, then maybe walnut necks too?

Thoughts?

Thanks for your valued and esteemed opinions

Glenn

Nothing wrong with any of the woods you mentioned. Walnut is a little more chippy than Mahogany, and/or Spanish Cedar, but works fine for necks.

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Waddy

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Chippy? I've worked with walnut for years and wouldn't describe it thus. It cuts like butter.

You mean bending characteristics?

I found it to be that way when carving the neck and heel with chisels and spokeshaves. Maybe it's a technique problem! Operator Head Space!

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Waddy

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Walnut makes a great neck material! It is a little more difficult to carve than mahogany. It's a bit heavier though.

When you say 3/4 size, what are you meaning? When referred to as 3/4 size, it usually means that everything is scaled down to accommodate small players such as children. If you're just making the body smaller, then its just a small bodied guitar. There are plenty of examples of those for inspiration. 630-640mm scale is often found on these. Also, working on a smaller body, pay attention to how stiff/flexible you make the top, the smaller body doesn't have the span that a larger body has and can be made with more spring than a large top.

Walnut will make a great guitar body. I have used it for necks and I like it for that, as well. But Spanish Cedar is the wood of choice for classicals, and its lighter weight may make it the better choice for balance on a smaller instrument.

Good luck!

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I originally intended them to be actual 3/4 scale, but I was concerned about volume issues for such a small body and a short neck.

I thought maybe a full scale would ensure enough string tension to project well, but since one top is already braced and patched, it's options are more limited without moving the bridge patch.

The 650mm scale would join this body around the 18th fret, so now I'm looking at uke scales (I use the stewmac fret jig). Or maybe I can use one I have and start at a higher fret.

On the bright side, I pore filled the backs with pumice and shellac and am very impressed with the result. I did (both) in an hour what I was unable to do by brushing on several thick coats of shellac and level sanding. I'll post some picks after I get some bodying sessions done.

I don't want to complete the finish before I assemble the instruments...


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Glenn, you could possibly make these into Terz guitars which are about 3/4 size with a shorter scale and are tuned a third higher. (Just a thought!)

I'm glad to see you are considering shorter scales. Frankly, I don't see the point in making a smaller bodied guitar but with a full size guitar scale. It kind of misses the main point in my opinion.

Pat

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I intended them for children, but the full scale could also be for travel or parlor guitar, etc.

Guitars haven't always been D-sized

Glenn


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I pared the braces down a bit further (triangular profile) on the braced top and bungled it pretty well.

No matter how much tape I laid or how I held the chisel, I managed to dig into the top. The damage was not irreparable but definitely not my best effort.

I was using a different (thicker) chisel than I normally use. I definitely needed to round the corners.

Then I got to thinking about a making a tool to safely profile fan braces by pulling rather than pushing, like a tiny, triangular scorp, except with the cutting edges on the sides rather than the scoop.